Writing Through the Mist: Lessons from a Costa Rican Retreat
Finding clarity in the clouds, from ocelot sightings to overcoming imposter syndrome.
Newsletter Feb 15, 2026
Every birthday, I commit myself to a new adventure. This year, I chose a writing retreat in Costa Rica, led by Bookouture’s historical fiction author Julie Hartley.
(Gemini_Generated_Image_xjw78jxjw78jxjw7.) (AI representation of the ocelet I encountered in the jungle with the Arenal volcano in the background.)
🇨🇷 Although I’d never been to Costa Rica before, I’d attended another writing retreat last summer. (In Newfoundland with Gerard Collins). Based on conversations with other writers, I gathered that every instructor has their own retreat style. But in general, the design is similar: mornings filled with writing exercises followed by afternoons of local touring. In my opinion, it’s a fantastic way of killing two birds with one stone: improving writing skills while satisfying wanderlust.
Quepos and The Challenge of the Climate
I’m not a beach person, and my sensitive body is not fond of hot, humid temperatures. 🥵 Before I signed up for the trip, I checked Costa Rica’s weather; it averages 21–27°C, depending on the elevation. With the rainy season ending in December, February is an ideal month to visit.
I wanted to celebrate my 70th birthday somewhere special—awash with Pacific breezes and spectacular sunsets, where I could indulge in sweet, fresh-caught ocean fish. Costa Rica checked all the boxes.
Our itinerary called for us to fly into San Jose and leave via Liberia. Centauri Arts pre-arranged all our transportation to Quepos and Arenal — both places are three-four hour drives from the airports. A car makes life easier but isn’t necessary as taxis are inexpensive.
Our first week in Quepos was hotter and more humid than anticipated (30C+). My body swelled up like a balloon. 🏊♂️ However, an onsite swimming pool, AC, and a comfy bed at our boutique hotel Las Cascades kept me cool. 🛌 Plus the excellent fresh menus more than compensated for my swollen joints.
🐟 My favorite place to dine in Quepos was Sabromar. This place is owned by a local fisherman who personally delivers the catch to the restaurant every morning. The white sea bass met my highest expectations! Sadly, it was only offered once this week. Other delicious options included mahi-mahi, tuna, and red snapper.
😔 I wanted to return every day, but my host and half of the writing group were vegetarians who out-voted me, opting for restaurants and menus catering to their special diets. When traveling with a group, one must either compromise or dine alone.
Heading into the Rainforest
During the second week, we left the uncomfortable 30C+ heat for the coolness of the rainforest. The group milieu changed, too, as only four writers (including myself) had signed up for the full two weeks. As old members left, new ones arrived. Most were returning writers and former clients of our host.
While they renewed their long-standing friendships, I felt like a fish out of water. The talent in the room far surpassed mine. As imposter syndrome took hold, my creativity fumbled. 🥸 However, my body loved the cool, rainy weather (16C-22C during our stay.) The flexibility in my hands improved enough so I could write for a few hours every day.
The Arenal Observatory🌳
The Arenal Observatory is set against an active volcano that only entered a resting phase in 2010. The observatory was originally built in 1987 as a Smithsonian scientific laboratory to study the volcano’s activity. Bungalows were built to house the scientists and students working there. After the volcano quieted, the owner turned the property into a resort while also raising funds to restore the rainforest flora and fauna. The park is a quiet place in the middle of the jungle and the roads to get there are a bit rough.
Incredibly, while North Americans were suffering in the deep freeze of -30°C, the Arenal Observatory was also experiencing unusually rainy weather and cold temperatures (as low as 16°C). 🥶
Travel Tip: When packing, I had discarded my warm sweaters and heavy rain jacket, not expecting to need them. My mistake. We were deep in the jungle, far away from an easy shopping trip. The resort’s gift shop had no jackets—just a thin, long-sleeved t-shirt. Even while visiting La Fortuna’s hot springs, I couldn’t find a sweatshirt. I guess such things are not often required in Costa Rica!
Refusing to allow the damp cold to seep into my bones, I sat on my lake-view deck with my computer, wrapped in a cozy fleece blanket, watching the morning mist rise over Lake Arenal. As it dissipated into the forest canopy below me, I waited for the thick clouds over the volcano to disappear so I could see the top. They didn’t. The clouds held the mountain captive for the entire week.
On the Trails and Under the Leaves
During breaks in the rain, I hiked the resort’s bountiful trails, hoping to spot some rare wildlife. Although the jungle screamed, my eye wasn’t experienced enough to spot the howlers. The resort’s free nature tour proved how untrained my eye really was; all sorts of critters live under the leaves and hide in the trees. (See the photo of the red-eyed tree frog below.) One must know where to look—it’s definitely best to walk with a partner to have an extra set of eyes!
I wasn’t lucky on the trails, but I did spot a rare ocelot—sleeping right beside my cabin! It was a young cat, notably whiter with striking black markings. Sadly, while I fumbled for my camera, it jumped up and disappeared into the forest. Another member of our writing group managed to film it prowling between our units. We were all envious! I wish I could share the video, but I don’t have permission. ☹️ The staff said the big cat is shy and harmless, and it’s quite rare to see one. Lucky me! 😀
A Rainbow of Wings and a Birthday Wish
At the resort’s only restaurant, I picked up a few birding notes from the many global birders who visit the area. In the morning, when the staff filled the feeders with tropical fruit, cameras clicked as birds arrived in droves. It was a literal rainbow of wings at the feeders. 🦜🐦🐦⬛
As for the “people food”—well, when you’re a captive audience in the middle of nowhere, you don’t expect ocean-side dining. The menu was small and the prices high. That said, the food was good, and the staff at the observatory were amazing. They always did their best to please.
However, I didn’t come to the rainforest for fine dining. I came to nestle with nature: to wake up to the twitter of birds and the chatter of monkeys; to watch sloths hang in trees and coatis dig for worms; to experience a once-in-a-lifetime sighting of an ocelot, and to watch the sun set over Lake Arenal.
Most of all, I came to celebrate the end of one decade and the beginning of another. Happy Birthday to me.
I didn’t get much writing done—nature had me spellbound.
Please enjoy these photos.
While the jungle was a beautiful distraction, my heart and my pen are never far from the stories that matter most. Whether it’s the history we live through or the adventures we choose, thank you for being part of my journey.
What’s your favorite birthday memory? If you enjoyed this article, please share it, restack it, or drop me a line. I’d love to hear from you.
About the Author: MJ Krause-Chivers is a writer and traveler who believes every birthday is an invitation to a new adventure. Having recently celebrated her 70th year in the mists of the Arenal rainforest, she is back at her desk, balancing her love for nature with following the latest developments in Ukraine. When she isn’t fumbling for her camera to catch a glimpse of an ocelot, she’s likely hunting for the perfect piece of fresh sea bass.
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Sounds (and looks) like an amazing experience.